Let me begin this post with my head bowed to the Lord Almighty who made a Darshan of the Holy Cave and Bhawan a reality for me!
Early this month, I went off to the state of Jammu & Kashmir for the primary purpose of having a Darshan of the divine manifestation of the Lord at the Holy Cave at Amarnath. The purpose achieved, I spent a day each at Srinagar and Gulmarg (apart from the stay at Sonmarg), before proceeding to Katara for the Darshan of Mata Vaishno Devi on Trikuta hills. For me, this was the first experience of the land of Jammu & Kashmir, and of course, the first prime view of the people who inhabit those lands.
It was my first experience of a city under curfew and was made aware that curfew does not mean a complete absence of civilians from road, nor necessarily a complete cessation of economic activities. The journey to Sonmarg from Srinagar required our driver to halt at a few places, i.e., the travel agency, a tyre repair shop and a yatra halt, wherefrom we proceeded to Sonmarg alongwith other yatra vehicles in a convoy. Curfew was much more relaxed in Ganderbhal and subsequent areas once out of Srinagar. Outside a J&K Bank ATM, numerous Kashmiri youths came up to me asking about the situation in Srinagar and expressing their pain on the happenings asking as to why is it that only Kashmiri stone pelters die when stone pelters in any other part of India are only lathi-charged? Except for mildly responding that deaths are unfortunate but that we don’t really know the situation under which the forces fired, I held back from arguing. Similar tales of Indian brutality got narrated all across, at Sonmarg, at Baltal, at Panjtarini, at Srinagar and at Gulmarg.
Overall, I captured the following impressions in the course of my stay in Kashmir:
• Kashmir is not seen as a part of India
• Kashmiris despise the Omar Government and the entire Abdullah clan. At the same time, Kashmiris have fond memories of the Mufti Government saying that it was the only one which understood and met Kashmiri needs
• Srinagar is quite an affluent city with people none the poorer for the lockouts
• Lots of money seems to be coming in to the valley. The entire stretch of the town of Kangan on Srinagar – Sonmarg route had new swanky houses coming up in place of old poor buildings. What is the source of this sudden and universal prosperity?
• People are inconvenienced by the curfew and demonstrations but see them as integral to their ‘struggle’ against India
• There seems to be an absolute belief that the loss of tourism on account of Kashmir’s imminent ‘independence’ would be more than made up by tourists from Pakistan and other parts of the world. In fact, the opinion seems that disturbances on account of the state being controlled by India has held back tourism growth
• Text message service seems active for local Kashmiris. While my post paid Airtel connection had its sms service barred in Srinagar, I both heard and saw the caretaker of my houseboat receiving a text message on his cellphone. Which network was it?
• The valley seems to be a willing customer to rumour mongers. One evening, the driver of our cab, the shikarawallah, the houseboat caretaker and another Kashmiri on Dal pier told us that eight people have been killed in firing at Ganderbhal. We had traveled the same route the same very evening and did not find any sign of any such event. Further, there was no mention of this supposed event anywhere in any news item, not even on Kashmiri newspaper websites.
• Kashmiri communal amity is a myth. Their mosques are centers of anti India propaganda. Likewise, another myth being propagated is Kashmiri support for the Amarnath Yatra! Support to yatra is a pure economic activity and does not have any other aspect for the local populace. In fact, Kashmiris are furious that the yatris are being allowed to go ahead in spite of the curfew in which their movements are not free. While we personally did not face any hostile mob, our co-guests at the houseboat had their convoy of vehicles stoned. Other yatris had similar stories to share. The conduct of the pony-wallahs, the sundry store owners at camps cannot be termed as amicable by any stretch of imagination. Another yatri was almost roughed up by pony-wallahs when he innocently proclaimed that Kashmir is also India!
• Muslims from Poonch are not necessarily pro India and anti Kashmiri, as some sections of the media would like us to believe
• It is only on account of the massive security bandobast that the Amarnath Yatra goes on. Had it not been for them, there wouldn’t be any yatra except probably for a handful of local Kashmiri Hindus making the pilgrimage to the Holy Cave.
• Even for the Government of India, the yatra seems to be more than a religious event and is probably designed to showcase the security control over the valley. To borrow someone else’s words, the Yatra, with pilgrims from all across the country, though more so from Punjab, is the muscular symbol of India’s presence in the valley
It is disturbing to accept that the overwhelming majority of a part of your country does not want to be with you. As a democrat, the first instinct is to let them secede. Even as a materialist, one would say that Kashmir has been a drain on India’s resources right from 1948. Forget the money, it has taken so many precious young lives of my countrymen. Rather than having such thankless people as a millstone around our neck, it would probably be the best solution to leave them to their desired fate.
However, some harsh reality check throws up the following even more disturbing aspects to the issues in Kashmir:
• Public opinion is fickle and two decades a very small period in the history of a Nation. These very Kashmiris did not want to accede to Pakistan in 1947-48, today they do and who knows of what they will desire tomorrow? Can the destiny of a Nation be entwined to such fickleness? Further, more mature democracies of UK, USA, Spain etc, historically, have nipped all attempts at secession in the bud. Are we a more mature democracy that we allow secessionist voices to gain victory?
• What happens to the rights of the original inhabitants of the land of our sages and Rishis? Or is it that this persecuted minority has no right to the land of their forefathers? Forget about the cleansing of Hindus from Pakistan, we have seen Kashimiriyat in all its glory in 1931, in 1950, in 1986, in 1990, in 1992, in numerous village massacres. Lest someone claim that such instances belong to the hoary past, let that person be aware of the temple burning in Anantnag, (July 2010) and attack on Sikhs in Awantipora (July 2010). It is more than clear that non-Muslims don’t have any place in Kashmir. Are Kashmiri Pandits doomed to exile status for following the call of their Shaivaite faith?
• What happens to the Hindu access to Amarnath, to Kheer Bhawani, to Awantipora, to Martand and the numerous temples and shrines which make up Kashmir?
• If Kashmiri ‘angst’ is not on account of religion, then why are mosques their centers of intrigue, of propaganda and they call for war? Why is the ‘struggle’ against ‘Indian occupying forces’ seen as a Jehad? Why is Anantnag called Islamabad or why has the Shankaracharya Hill been christened as Takht-i-Sulieman by the locals?
• If Kashmir does indeed separate from India, is it not again a reaffirmation of the fact that Hindus and Muslims are indeed a separate Nation? Will it not further give impetus to the fact that the strongest proponents of Pakistan, i.e., Muslims from United Provinces have very much remained in India, even after gaining their desired ‘Land of the Pure’?
• Elections are routinely rigged all across the country. In fact, states like West Bengal and Bihar have rarely seen a complete ‘fair’ election process. Why is it that these states don’t want to secede from India?
• The vanquished in the allegedly rigged elections of 1987 wanted to impose Shariat in Kashmir and wanted to use the Assembly to pass a resolution of independence. Supposedly, Syed Salahuddin and Yasin Malik picked up the gun when they were failed by rigging. Does listening to the Kashmiris mean listening to cries of ‘freedom’?
• If Kashmir indeed does separate, how will the state be divided? Kashmir becoming independent/going to Pakistan and Ladakh and Jammu remaining with India or even the latter two being divided on religious lines? If the latter happens, all we would be left with would be Leh and some three and a half districts of Jammu
• If we are indeed an occupying force, then why to allow so many anti Nationals, both in Kashmir and in mainland India to campaign against India?
• Has not the Kashmiri ‘alienation’ been fed by the special status accorded to that state? How can any reasonable person expect that people being told that they are different from us, start believing that they are indeed one of us?
The answers to the issues plaguing Kashmir are obviously not easy. Only, let not the fear of our own demons or the exhaustion of holding on to our historical lands overwhelm us so much that we take the easiest way out!